Having traveled extensively throughout South America and having dated an Argentine for 2 years, one constant I have continuously encountered is the “fake promises with a smile act.” Now, I do not believe that this behavior holds true for all of the people that inhabit the incredible continent, but I do believe that it exists widely. Let me express myself more succinctly; fake promises with a smile are usually not made with mal-intent, they are simply made to avoid having to disappoint people face-to-face.
You probably know where I am going with this introduction, right? Yep, the 5PM train tickets that were sworn to be ours, well they never really existed! M. and I lost all hope that we would make it back in time for our dinner when we discovered this information, so at that point we just kept hoping to make it to Cusco for the fireworks at midnight. I sat there at the train station in absolute amazement that the plans we had carefully constructed months ago were being shattered. I know that might sound dramatic, however we were losing a lot of money and had been very excited to spend New Year’s Eve in one of the best places in the world to celebrate the holiday.
Our real train tickets were for the 8PM train, which was the exact same time the train tickets that we had had in the morning were for. Thus, nothing had actually been changed. If the train took off in time and the taxi was waiting for us at the train station, then we would arrive around 11:30PM. Forget changing and dropping our stuff off, we would have to go straight to the main square in order to make it in time.
However, as the clock approached 8PM, an announcement was given saying, “Due to technical difficulties the 8PM train will be delayed. Wait for further instruction.” M. and I could not even look at each other we were so frustrated. The same announcement was repeated 15 minutes later. When the 3rd announcement came at 8:30PM, M. finally got up to investigate. About 5 minutes later he came rushing back with news that there was no technical difficulty! In fact, the real reason for the delay was due to 100 Peruvian women sitting on the train tracks in protest blocking the train from moving. An earlier train had been “promised” to them, even though the train tickets had been given to tourists willing to pay more money.
The Peruvians on strike. This photo was taken secretly, which is why it is of poor quality.
¡Oh dios mio! Now, I am about as devout of a human rights activist as you will find and I am all about equality and justice, but did it have to be stopping me from my New Year’s Eve plans, only the most important night of the year???
The strike went on for a good hour and a half and finally some people were able to convince the train station to provide the Peruvians with another train. At nearly 9:30PM we were finally off to Cusco! M. and I were emotionally drained from the day, as we had experienced both the highest of the highs and lowest of the lows in less than 24 hours. We both rode the train in silence knowing that we would be celebrating midnight in the taxi. When we arrived at the train station we were greeted by our taxi driver. The tour company again “promised” us a private taxi, however we were to share it with 5 other strangers.
We sped away towards Cusco as the sky opened up into torrential rain. This was the rainy season after all! We continued on a road that at many times was only one-way and it twisted and turned through the snowy Andes Mountains. I honestly thought I was going to die that night. And despite my love for adventure and adrenaline-filled experiences, I. was. scared. M. and I clinged to each other for support. I took out my i-touch and watched as the clock slowly moved towards midnight. At the stroke of the new year, I turned to M. and we shared a passionate kiss. At the same moment fireworks from nearby Cusco illuminated the black sky. It hit me then just how lucky I was! I might not have been in the location of my choice, but I was with the man I loved dearly surrounded by the most gorgeous mountains in the world. It was a journey and a lesson neither of us will ever forget.
I did not think that 2009 could top 2008 and it absolutely did. I cannot imagine how fabulous 2010 will be...bring it on baby!
Andi,
What an inspired entry! You're an incredibly gifted writer and traveler -- I can see how much new places take your breath away, especially a place as breathtaking as Macchu Picchu! I can feel how you absorbed the scenery with your whole being, and I really feel how HUMAN your entry was -- while you wrote about your experience on the trip, I could sense the anxiety about the tickets being screwed up. It was like reading a book and not wanting the chapter to end!
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