South Africa Day 3: The Tale Of The Sangoma
This was a special day for me, as the focus was on the roles and rituals of sangomas, or African healers. Traditional medicine is my passion, so I prepared myself for the visit by reading a book called The Political Aspects of Healing in Southern Africa by Rijk van Dijk Rias Reir and Marja Spierenburg. The 3 areas of concentration for sangomas are: prevention and protection from problems, determination of the causes of the problems, and elimination of the problems. Interestingly, 80% of the population in South Africa still uses Traditional African Medicine.
We began the day by driving to the Kwabhekithunga Village to have a dialog with the chief of the Zulu community there and to meet their sangoma. Along the way our guide stopped in a field of sugar canes to let us taste the sweet treat.
Our guide in the sugar cane field.
When we arrived at the Village we were greeted by 5 women with a beautiful song. This was quite a surreal moment for me; one of those times where words just do not do the experience justice!
Then the husbands and sons of the women came to greet us.
As we entered the Village the chief told us he had only 1 rule; men must always enter an area 1st. Of course hearing this tested my feminist ideals, but I unwillingly obliged. The men led my male colleagues in and then the women led me and my fellow female colleagues next into the tribal council area.
The tribal council area.
We all sat around in a circle while the chief briefly introduced us to the Zulu culture and then to their local sangoma.
The chief in all of his glory.
The chief's 2 wives.
Before the sangoma could make her entrance the space had to be cleared of negative energy, thus the community performed some song and dance.
Then the mysterious woman, to the beat of African drums, strode into the middle of the circle and demonstrated her healing art.
It was quite powerful to watch this sacred tradition. After about 20 minutes of chanting she then began to do her healing by telling people in the community certain things. This was all done in a language that I could not understand, so I am not sure exactly what she told them. I do know though that they took her words very seriously. After she was finished, she blessed some herbs and they were passed around for us to drink.
The magical herbs being passed around.
Me trying the herbs.
After the ceremony my colleagues and I were allowed to walk around the Village and talk with the community for about an hour.
Some of the homes in the community. Those are banana trees in the distance.
A view of Durban in the distance from the Village.
The chief and some of the women preparing a meal.
The chief and the same women relaxing after the meal.
Me and Sarah with some of the women we befriended.
Me and Sarah with the chief; a photo I will never forget!
The medical delegation with the Zulu community.
After the enriching morning, the next place we visited was the Love Life Center. In my humble opinion, the only way for South Africa to win the war against the AIDS pandemic is to have these centers on every corner. Love Life is the boldest sex education campaign ever conducted in South Africa. Their messages are delivered on radio, on television, and in newspapers. In addition to a media blitz, volunteers for Love Life visit sports facilities at schools and in communities to provide information to the youth. The campaign considers its main audience to be people ages 12 to 17.
The employees of Love Life singing us a welcome song.
According to a brochure I picked up from the center, "Love Life hopes to foster positive self-images and responsibility among the young people of South Africa." I remember sitting on the steps outside the center watching the 100 or so kids play sports in the sunshine and realizing that these were the fortunate few who were being "saved."
Me on the steps with some beautiful South African girls.
To decompress from the day, we went to the club Tiger Tiger to dance our worries away. The second I walked in the door, "Love Generation" by Bob Sinclar (one of my favorite songs) was playing and I knew I had come to the right place.
Me and Sarah on the dance floor. In case you think I am a lush,
it was 2 for 1 night.
I ended up making friends and dancing most of the night away with a famous South African footballer whom shall remain nameless (sorry readers, a true lady does not kiss and tell).
We began the day by driving to the Kwabhekithunga Village to have a dialog with the chief of the Zulu community there and to meet their sangoma. Along the way our guide stopped in a field of sugar canes to let us taste the sweet treat.
When we arrived at the Village we were greeted by 5 women with a beautiful song. This was quite a surreal moment for me; one of those times where words just do not do the experience justice!
Then the husbands and sons of the women came to greet us.
As we entered the Village the chief told us he had only 1 rule; men must always enter an area 1st. Of course hearing this tested my feminist ideals, but I unwillingly obliged. The men led my male colleagues in and then the women led me and my fellow female colleagues next into the tribal council area.
The tribal council area.
We all sat around in a circle while the chief briefly introduced us to the Zulu culture and then to their local sangoma.
The chief in all of his glory.
The chief's 2 wives.
Before the sangoma could make her entrance the space had to be cleared of negative energy, thus the community performed some song and dance.
Then the mysterious woman, to the beat of African drums, strode into the middle of the circle and demonstrated her healing art.
It was quite powerful to watch this sacred tradition. After about 20 minutes of chanting she then began to do her healing by telling people in the community certain things. This was all done in a language that I could not understand, so I am not sure exactly what she told them. I do know though that they took her words very seriously. After she was finished, she blessed some herbs and they were passed around for us to drink.
The magical herbs being passed around.
Me trying the herbs.
After the ceremony my colleagues and I were allowed to walk around the Village and talk with the community for about an hour.
Some of the homes in the community. Those are banana trees in the distance.
A view of Durban in the distance from the Village.
The chief and the same women relaxing after the meal.
Me and Sarah with some of the women we befriended.
Me and Sarah with the chief; a photo I will never forget!
The medical delegation with the Zulu community.
The employees of Love Life singing us a welcome song.
According to a brochure I picked up from the center, "Love Life hopes to foster positive self-images and responsibility among the young people of South Africa." I remember sitting on the steps outside the center watching the 100 or so kids play sports in the sunshine and realizing that these were the fortunate few who were being "saved."
Me on the steps with some beautiful South African girls.
To decompress from the day, we went to the club Tiger Tiger to dance our worries away. The second I walked in the door, "Love Generation" by Bob Sinclar (one of my favorite songs) was playing and I knew I had come to the right place.
it was 2 for 1 night.
I ended up making friends and dancing most of the night away with a famous South African footballer whom shall remain nameless (sorry readers, a true lady does not kiss and tell).
1. Love the pictures
2. Jealous of your trip!
3. Boomers is now renamed and owned by longtime employee Jonathan Sanchez. Just as good as ever!
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Andi
I've been meaning to get here for a few days-I'm so glad I made it here. What a wonderful account of your trip into that beautiful village! I am looking forward to reading more entries...lovely photographs! xoxo
Gillian
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holy moly! you are on an incredible adventure! i want to know how it began! and yes, do you recommend acupuncture for pms?
xo
mati
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Looks like that was an amazing day! I love this kind of stuff. I am actually considering getting a masters in ethnomusicology right now. It sucks when you have to let go of your beliefs (even if just for a moment) so you don't offend people. That is a constant battle for me!
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Love the pic of you with the girls! and of my... I cannot wait to go to Africa one day. the village experience is so inspiring!!! xo
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