Mexico City Day 3: Mexcity City Day 3: A Day In The Life Of My Hero Frida Kahlo (Part 2)

The other 2 girls wanted to walk to the Trotsky Museum from Casa Azul, however Mel and I wanted to take the Turibus, which is one of those buses that takes you all around the city and you can hop on or off whenever you desire.  We both felt like that was the best way for me to see more of the city in the little time that I had left.  The weather was perfect for us to sit on the 2nd level that was uncovered. 


La Zona Rosa

We rode the bus for about an hour and then finally disembarked in San Angel.  This is Mel’s favorite area in Mexico City and by the end of the day it was definitely mine too.

The art market in San Angel.

We cut across the art market amidst a delightful patch of palms and jacarandas to a Creperie to fill up on crepes and watermelon juice.  This being the weekend, the indigenous market down the street was also out in full swing. 

While walking through it to get to the Twin Studios I spotted the most divine hand-woven blanket with the magical Oaxacan creatures that I had fallen in love with on my first day in Coyoacan.  I inquired how much money it cost and it was definitely out of my budget.  I decided to let it go, but I could not get it out of my mind.

Mel and I continued wandering down the cobblestone streets and daydreaming of owning a house together there one day.


Me and Guadelupe in San Angel.


Another
Guadelupe!

Eventually we reached the Twin Studios and again my breath was taken away!  There in front of me was Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s home.  After the independent pair got married they commissioned their eccentric San Angel dream house to be constructed of double artist studios with a bridge in between.  Guarding the home was a prickly 6-foot-high cactus barrier.  Their turbulent marriage fell apart after Diego was caught having an affair with Frida’s younger sister, but the pair remarried and moved back into Casa Azul, after barely a year apart.  There is hardly a trace of Frida in the Twin Studios, save a collection of dolls in Diego’s studio; each one given to him after every time he was caught having an affair, which is tradition in Mexican culture.


The exterior of the Twin Studios.


Another photo of the exterior of the Twin Studios, but with a better view
of the bridge and cactus fence.

The kitchen in Frida's studio.

The bathroom in Frida's studio.

Art collages in Diego's studio.

Diego's painting room.  That painting is of Frida's sister, one of the many
women he had an affair with.


Diego's painting supplies.

Diego stood there!

Diego's closet.

Me on the infamous bridge.

Because it was getting late, we decided to take a taxi back to Mel’s car in Coyoacan, rather than take the Turibus.

You will hear it over and over: Never hail a taxi in the street unless you want your 1st stop to be an ATM, where, at knife point, your driver might relieve you of the contents of your checking account.  Whereas, hotel and city-regulated taxi's are supposedly safe.  Thankfully, Mel drove me around everywhere, so I never had the opportunity to test this rumor out, but I would like to say that I never once felt unsafe in Mexico City.  It is like every other big city; just use common sense.

After we retrieved Mel’s car and were heading in the direction of my hotel, she said that she could tell I was still thinking about that blanket in the market (admittedly I was).  Without giving me much choice, she drove all the way back to the San Angel market and went through the great trouble of finding a parking spot.  She then proceeded to drag me over to the merchant that was selling the blanket and bargain with him for half of what he originally wanted in price.  What a true friend she is!  I seriously think this is my favorite item I have ever bought during my travels.

The day ended in La Condesa, the bohemian enclave.  By day, stroll Amsterdam, the art deco main drag, for Indie boutiques and hot galleries.  By night, the scene hits hotel rooftops.  This is where Mel and I met yet another Couchsurfer, Miguel, for pizza.  I was also expecting my friend, Polo, whom I had met years ago on a solo trip to Iguazu Falls in Argentina/Brasil

Although I speak fairly good conversational Spanish, I was lost on the “English” tour that I had booked to Iguazu Falls.  Polo, who also happened to be on the same tour with me, could tell that I was lost when the guide was rapidly speaking in Spanish and he kindly offered to translate for me.  We became instant friends after that.  The last time I saw him was over a year ago at his beach house in Cancun and I was excited to make up for lost time.

While we waited for Polo to arrive, Miguel and I discussed over mango margaritas the complexities of United States politics.  We had a long debate on who was the better democratic candidate at the time (him believing Senator Obama and I believing Senator Clinton).  A couple of hours and 1 bored Mel later, in walked Polo and his friend Cesar.  Imagine my amazement when Polo, Cesar, and Miguel embraced each other as lifelong friends, which they just so happened to be!  In a city of millions and millions of people, what are the chances that these random men in my life would know each other?  No one could really believe the situation and we kept laughing about it until 6AM.
 

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