My Beautiful Adventures

Good Things Come To Those Who Wait

2009-12-14T02:54:00Z

My Beautiful Adventures is undergoing major reconstruction and will be back in 2010 even bigger and better! Thanks so much for your patience...I promise it will be worth it!!!

Guatemala Day 2: The Perfect Day (Part 2)

2009-11-06T16:34:00Z

Here are even more photos from our walk, these were taken inside Parque Central...

Catedral de Santiago

Another magnificent view of Catedral de Santiago.

One of the most important part's of the processions are the extraordinary "carpets" constructed out of various colored grass that are made by the devotees. As people walk over them they are instantly destroyed and new ones must be created.

How I love parades; the smiling people, the infectious joy in the air, the feeling of connecting with a large group of people. Mel and I could not stop smiling as everyone passed us by.

The following photos are from the last procession we saw of the day:

We got so caught up in the moment that it was not until later in the afternoon when we realized that we had forgotten to eat anything all day. We quickly found a restaurant where we could still hear the sounds of the parades while we replenished ourselves.

Me waiting for our table at the restaurant. My poor feet were so tired!

The view from the restaurant.

Next we visited the markets. I was on search for the perfect bag and Mel for the perfect scarf. The Guatemalan goods are rich in both color and pattern. I wanted to buy everything I saw! No bag was found, but we both discovered scarves that we neither of us could live without.

A pretty fountain in the center of the markets.

The final stop on our sightseeing list was the famed Arco de Santa Catalina, otherwise known simply as the Arco. This is one of La Antigua's most recognizable landmarks. It is the lasting remains of what was once a convent.

An example of a "carpet" being made with a view of the Arco de Santa
Catalina in the distance.

Arco de Santa Catalina

Near the Arco was a beautiful, old Cathedral called Iglesia y Convento de Nuestra Senora de la Merced. We decided to step inside to witness the end of an Easter Mass.

The facade of Iglesia y Convento de Nuestra Senora de la Merced.

The inside of Iglesia y Convento de Nuestra Senora de la Merced.

By early evening we must have walked about 5km’s throughout the city and our feet were feeling it. We headed back to our hotel for a quick rest before setting out again for dinner. Earlier we had found a restaurant called Sangre that was near the Arco that looked fabulous, so we booked a reservation there. Neither Mel nor I were particularly hungry when we sat down to eat, however the food was so scrumptious, that we had about 5 courses!

We made plans to meet a Couchsurfer at the bar Estudio 35, which luckily happened to be next door to the restaurant after our meal. The guy we met, who also managed the bar, was quite a character and hearing his life story definitely provided Mel and I with an interesting conversation on the walk back to the hotel. All in all it was really the perfect day and the memories of La Antigua will remain in my heart forever!

Guatemala Day 2: The Perfect Day (Part 1)

2009-11-04T02:43:00Z

Early in the morning I awoke to thousands of people chanting Catholic hymns in the streets. Although I was jet lagged and would have liked to sleep a couple of more hours, I was very excited to see what was taking place.

Before we started our journey around the city, I had the hotel concierge call to the rental car company to inquire the where-a-bouts of my car. The company informed me that there was no longer a car for me, because they had rented them all out (despite the fact that I had reserved mine over a month in advance). I could feel the anger begin to rise and was about to prepare myself for a war of words. However, I channeled some inner peace and decided that it was not worth it to argue. Mel and I would just find a new means of transportation.

It was true that the main reason for this trip was for the chance to drive around another country, but I am more than aware that when traveling a certain amount of Zen-like behavior must be displayed. One must adapt to the changes quickly; otherwise the trip has the potential to be ruined. And that is exactly what we did! We asked the concierge what are new options were and within minutes they found us a private driver to take us wherever we wanted to go for almost the same exact price as the rental car would have cost us. Que bueno!

As Mel and I stepped foot outside our hotel’s primacies my breath was completely taken away from me. I had heard how beautiful La Antigua Guatemala or “the Old Guatemala” is, but it is one of those things that you will never truly appreciate until experienced firsthand. La Antigua is a historically significant, well-preserved, colonial city dating from the 17^th century. It was at one time the capitol of Guatemala; now it is Guatemala City. It is set in a valley close to the Agua, Fuego, and Acatenango volcanoes providing the most stunning views.

My 1st view of La Antigua as I stepped out of our hotel.

Here are some more photos from our walk to the main square...

Convento de Las Capuchinas

It is simple to comprehend why it has been given the honor of being named an UNESCO World Heritage Site. You already feel like you are stepping foot into the past while being in La Antigua, but the feeling is only deepened if you are there during Semana Santa. The Holy Week is considered the week before Easter. The processions start on Holy Thursday, but the largest ones are on Good Friday, and they end on Easter Sunday. They are to commemorate the final days of Jesus’ life culminating in his crucifixion on Good Friday and his resurrection on Easter Sunday.

Procession, which in Latin means “to go forth” or “to advance,” is a religious parade. In the La Antigua processions scenes from the Bible are acted out, specifically the 12 stages of the cross. People from all over Guatemala participate and anyone, even gringos y gringas, are allowed to join in the celebrations (that meant me!).

Me in the midst of a procession.

Before Mel and I followed a procession, we decided to do some more walking around the ancient city and here are some more photos from our walk...

The street markets.

To be continued...

Guatemala Day 1: Traveling Is The Most Rewarding Kind Of Stress

2009-11-03T00:09:00Z

Sometimes even we seasoned travelers who think we have mastered the art of traveling make the most novice mistakes. I have always wanted to experience Semana Santa, or Holy Week, in Central America. Over the years people have entertained me with countless stories about the processions and parties that take place to celebrate the Easter holiday. However, when I booked my flight to Guatemala it never occurred to me that I would be choosing the weekend of Semana Santa and it only finally occurred to me when I tried to book hotels and every single one was full. From what I have now learned if you plan to travel during this week you need to book your hotel at least 4 months in advance. It took me a while, but thankfully I was finally able to find some places to stay.

2 weeks prior to this trip I met Mel, who is now a dear friend, during my brief trip to Mexico City. I invited her to join me and she immediately agreed. She had visited Guatemala 3 years ago for a wedding and had such a wonderful time that she was ready for round 2!

Again, I had an early morning flight. I cannot put into words how much I hate waking up early. I would much rather stay awake until 5AM, than wake up at that time. And no matter how much coffee you give me, I am still not going to be the cheerful person I normally am. I know how fortunate I am to have the opportunity to travel though, so I will work on embracing these early morning flights and hopefully you will not have to read my silly complaints in the future.

I have decided to eliminate the specific details regarding the terrible events that took place at the airport after I checked in, since they do not contribute in a positive way to the remembrance of the trip. All I will say is that they included: a 3 hour delay in NYC leading to a missed connection, irate passengers, screaming children, and a 6 hour layover in Miami. Normally, minor travel setbacks are to be expected, but when the trip is only a few days to begin with, they suddenly turn into major ones.

This whole trip was first planned around renting a car and driving around the country. I had previously done this in Costa Rica and on my way there I sat beside a woman on the airplane from Guatemala City. She enchanted me with colorful stories of her country and people and when choosing which place to drive around next, I reflected on that memorable encounter. Thus, I chose Guatemala as my next location to try it.

Note: private taxis can be found in abundance and are usually around $30-40. I was lucky enough to catch a bus that was just leaving and only had to wait about 5 minutes. As we approached La Antigua, the traffic began to congest heavily. The driver looked at us passengers like, “C’mon it is Semana Santa, what do you expect?” We idled for a while and then the driver announced that most of the streets were blocked, as the town was getting ready for the processions tomorrow. I would have to walk with all of my luggage and tired body about 5-6 cobblestone blocks. I shook my head in disbelief at how the day had so far turned out, took a couple of deep breaths, and began to search for my hotel. After several wrong turns, I finally found it.

The only place that I was able to find available was El Convento Boutique Hotel, which was across the street from the ruins of the Nunnery called Convento de Las Capuchinas. The hotel was recently built and is still fairly unknown. I truly believe this place rivals for the title of “The Most Beautiful Hotel in the World.” As I was checking in, Mel was informed of my arrival, and she came running to the reception desk to greet me. It was more than wonderful to see her after the very long and frustrating day I had!

Me in the lobby of our hotel.

I was so exhausted in the bus ride to the hotel, but after seeing Mel and walking through the candle-lit streets and breathing in the incensed filled air I was more than ready to start exploring my 26^th country. Mel had said that earlier she had mixed up hotels (there is another Hotel Convento, however, it is much larger) and was amazed by the other hotel’s grounds. She wanted to go back and take pictures with me.

The candlelit entrance into Hotel Convento.

While we were there a mass was being conducted and it only added to the incredible ambiance of the enchanting place.

Me inside Hotel Convento.

Then we found an al fresco restaurant set amongst a garden and this where I first fell in love with Guatemalan cuisine. After our delicious meal, I just could not keep my eyes open any longer and we headed back to our sanctuary for some much needed rest.

Exciting Andi News

2009-11-01T20:50:00Z

Last week, one of my favorite blogger's Dave at Go Backpacking sent out an email saying that he was looking for guest blogger's. I quickly sent him back an email offering my help and he accepted right away! I am going to have a weekly column about the ins and outs of Couchsurfing. If you get a chance, please stop by here and show me some love on my 1st post.

Mexcity City Day 4: The Fastest Weekend Of My Life

2009-10-28T17:22:00Z

Because we had stayed out so late the previous night, Mel and I both needed some extra sleep. I had to be out of my hotel around 1PM, which is when Mel picked me up. Sadly, I only had 2 hours before I needed to be at the airport. We quickly drove to Xochimilco, which is an area of the city that is known for its extended series of canals that are the remains of the ancient Lago Xochimilco, which was a lake.

The colorful boats in the canals.

One of the entrances to the canals was closed, causing serious traffic. So, we were unable to take an actual boat ride, however I am happy that I was at least able to get a quick glimpse at the canals and the colorful boats where you can dine while you float along the water. Believe it or not I even saw a boat with my name!

As we headed to the airport I invited Mel to join me on my next trip 2 weeks later to Guatemala and she said yes! Knowing that we were going to be seeing each other so soon definitely made saying adios at the airport much easier.

Ahhh, the perils of traveling. I do not think I have ever been on a trip where I have been able to do and see everything that I had wanted to. This was especially the case in Mexico City; an unforgettable destination that certainly captured my heart!

Mexico City Day 3: Mexcity City Day 3: A Day In The Life Of My Hero Frida Kahlo (Part 2)

2009-10-26T17:58:00Z

The other 2 girls wanted to walk to the Trotsky Museum from Casa Azul, however Mel and I wanted to take the Turibus, which is one of those buses that takes you all around the city and you can hop on or off whenever you desire. We both felt like that was the best way for me to see more of the city in the little time that I had left. The weather was perfect for us to sit on the 2^nd level that was uncovered.

La Zona Rosa

We rode the bus for about an hour and then finally disembarked in San Angel. This is Mel’s favorite area in Mexico City and by the end of the day it was definitely mine too.

The art market in San Angel.

We cut across the art market amidst a delightful patch of palms and jacarandas to a Creperie to fill up on crepes and watermelon juice. This being the weekend, the indigenous market down the street was also out in full swing.

While walking through it to get to the Twin Studios I spotted the most divine hand-woven blanket with the magical Oaxacan creatures that I had fallen in love with on my first day in Coyoacan. I inquired how much money it cost and it was definitely out of my budget. I decided to let it go, but I could not get it out of my mind.

Mel and I continued wandering down the cobblestone streets and daydreaming of owning a house together there one day.

Me and Guadelupe in San Angel.

Another Guadelupe!

Eventually we reached the Twin Studios and again my breath was taken away! There in front of me was Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s home. After the independent pair got married they commissioned their eccentric San Angel dream house to be constructed of double artist studios with a bridge in between. Guarding the home was a prickly 6-foot-high cactus barrier. Their turbulent marriage fell apart after Diego was caught having an affair with Frida’s younger sister, but the pair remarried and moved back into Casa Azul, after barely a year apart. There is hardly a trace of Frida in the Twin Studios, save a collection of dolls in Diego’s studio; each one given to him after every time he was caught having an affair, which is tradition in Mexican culture.

The exterior of the Twin Studios.

Another photo of the exterior of the Twin Studios, but with a better view
of the bridge and cactus fence.

The kitchen in Frida's studio.

The bathroom in Frida's studio.

Art collages in Diego's studio.

Diego's painting room. That painting is of Frida's sister, one of the many
women he had an affair with.

Diego's painting supplies.

Diego stood there!

Diego's closet.

Me on the infamous bridge.

Because it was getting late, we decided to take a taxi back to Mel’s car in Coyoacan, rather than take the Turibus.

You will hear it over and over: Never hail a taxi in the street unless you want your 1st stop to be an ATM, where, at knife point, your driver might relieve you of the contents of your checking account. Whereas, hotel and city-regulated taxi's are supposedly safe. Thankfully, Mel drove me around everywhere, so I never had the opportunity to test this rumor out, but I would like to say that I never once felt unsafe in Mexico City. It is like every other big city; just use common sense.

After we retrieved Mel’s car and were heading in the direction of my hotel, she said that she could tell I was still thinking about that blanket in the market (admittedly I was). Without giving me much choice, she drove all the way back to the San Angel market and went through the great trouble of finding a parking spot. She then proceeded to drag me over to the merchant that was selling the blanket and bargain with him for half of what he originally wanted in price. What a true friend she is! I seriously think this is my favorite item I have ever bought during my travels.

The day ended in La Condesa, the bohemian enclave. By day, stroll Amsterdam, the art deco main drag, for Indie boutiques and hot galleries. By night, the scene hits hotel rooftops. This is where Mel and I met yet another Couchsurfer, Miguel, for pizza. I was also expecting my friend, Polo, whom I had met years ago on a solo trip to Iguazu Falls in Argentina/Brasil.

Although I speak fairly good conversational Spanish, I was lost on the “English” tour that I had booked to Iguazu Falls. Polo, who also happened to be on the same tour with me, could tell that I was lost when the guide was rapidly speaking in Spanish and he kindly offered to translate for me. We became instant friends after that. The last time I saw him was over a year ago at his beach house in Cancun and I was excited to make up for lost time.

While we waited for Polo to arrive, Miguel and I discussed over mango margaritas the complexities of United States politics. We had a long debate on who was the better democratic candidate at the time (him believing Senator Obama and I believing Senator Clinton). A couple of hours and 1 bored Mel later, in walked Polo and his friend Cesar. Imagine my amazement when Polo, Cesar, and Miguel embraced each other as lifelong friends, which they just so happened to be! In a city of millions and millions of people, what are the chances that these random men in my life would know each other? No one could really believe the situation and we kept laughing about it until 6AM.

Mexcity City Day 3: A Day In The Life Of My Hero Frida Kahlo (Part 1)

2009-10-25T17:41:00Z

Mel and I decided to dedicate the day to seeing all things Frida. Erika and another Couchsurfer from Germany wanted to join us as well, so we told them to meet us at the zocalo in Coyoacan.

Parroquia de San Juan Bautista in Coyoacan revisited.

Me and the coyotes in the zocalo in Coyoacan.

Before they arrived, Mel and I each enjoyed a café con leche and pastry at a quaint café called the Italian Coffee Company. While we were there we entertained each other with exciting traveling stories (I am desperate to go to Sicily now because of her).

The café we had brunch in.

Once the other 2 ladies joined us, we then we walked about 15 minutes to Casa Azul, or the Blue House, where Frida lived and died.

As we approached the historical home/museum my heart began to flutter with such excitement! My adoration for Frida Kahlo started about a decade ago when I came across her diary in the bookstore. I had never heard of her before, but was captivated by her image on the back cover. I bought the book after becoming hooked from reading only a page and became one of her biggest fans that day. Her creativity, tenacity, courage, and talent are awe-inspiring to say the least.

My 1st sighting of Casa Azul!

Casa Azul is agenuine reflection of Frida’s spirit. One was not permitted to take pictures, however I had Mel keep a lookout for me so Icould snap a couple of her bedroom and kitchen. I know, how terrible ofme, but I have a feeling Frida is somewhere laughing and painting thefunny scene.

Now let me take you on a little stroll through the blue house...

Thepain that she endured throughout her life and the strength that she wasable to posses despite her immense suffering is heartbreaking, though Idoubt her paintings would have been as full of emotion otherwise. Andthat is what I admire most about her artwork; the honesty behind it all.She never once tried to make things prettier than they really were. It was truly a dream-come-true experience to be amongst her belongings.

One of my favorite self-portraits she made was of herself wrapped up ina fuchsia scarf and wearing big, fabulous earrings and necklace. Inthe gift shop they had a small replica in a wooden frame that I bought to hang up inmy house, not only as a reminder of her, but also of this special day.

Mel and I in Casa Azul.

To be continued...

Mexcity City Day 2: Traveling = Life

2009-10-22T01:13:00Z

This was one of those day’s that totally changes your life and only adds more fuel to the fire that ignites your passion for traveling...

I woke up feeling pretty exhausted, so I decided to splurge and order room service. A cheese omelet and some pan dulce later, I was more energized and ready to start my day with Mel. Our 1st stop was in the Zocalo area, where there was a Gregory Colbert exhibition at the Nomadic Museum. The exhibition was entitled “Ashes and Snow”and was free to the public. We arrived early in the morning and already there was at least a thousand people standing in line. Do yourself a favor and check out that link--I promise it will rock your world!

Outside the 'Ashes and Snow' exhibit at the Nomadic Museum in the

**center of the Zocalo square.**

The Nomadic Museum, which is the permanent traveling home of the exhibition, was a spectacular work of art itself. It was made out of bamboo and while it was simplistic in nature, it was still incredibly striking and the perfect place to house the extraordinary work. I had heard a lot about this exhibit and was saddened when I had learned that I had missed it when it was in NYC, however the opportunity to see it again had thankfully presented itself.

A closer shot of the Nomadic Museum.

The exhibition contained large-scale photographic artwork and films in sepia tone that were edited by 2-time Oscar winner Pietro Scalia and narrated by Laurence Fishburne (English) and Ken Watanabe (Japanese). Gregory Colbert, the artist behind the masterpiece “Ashes and Snow,” has brilliantly captured intimate interactions between humans and animals from his expeditions around the world.

In Colbert’s own words about his work, “In exploring the shared language and poetic sensibilities of all animals, I am working towards rediscovering the common ground that once existed when people lived in harmony with animals.” The title of “Ashes and Snow” suggests the concepts of rebirth and renewal, while also, according to the brochure handed out at the exhibition, “refers to the literary component of the exhibition--a fictional account of a man who, over the course of a yearlong journey, composes 365 letters to his wife. The source of the title is revealed in the 365^th letter.”

One of the picture's from the exhibit that was on the outside of the museum.

Unfortunately, no cameras were allowed in the museum. I suppose it was for the best, as the constant sight of flashes would have greatly disturbed one’s attention from the work. Although, I would have loved to have been able to show others, who will never be able to see the exhibit, just how extraordinary the work was. The inside of the museum was massive and the only light that existed was used to illuminate the pictures that were hanging on both sides of the walkway. Underneath the pictures was a stream of water and if one looked into the water you could see the reflection of the pictures in it. The videos were displayed on gigantic screens at the end of each walkway. I truly believe that if this had been the only thing I was able to see while in Mexico City, it would have been worth flying all the way down there just for it.

A close up of one of my favorite pictures (of course it has an elephant) in the gift shop.

The 2nd stop of the day was equally spectacular: the ancient city of Teotihuacan. Teotihuacan is one of the most frequently visited archaeological sites in the world and a must-see if you are in Mexico City. By car it took us about 45 minutes to reach from the city center (there is a small fee for parking at the site). I have heard, as well as read, that taking a bus is an affordable and comfortable way to get there too.

The site is impressive for its scale, both in the size of the Pyramid of the Sun (the third largest pyramid in the world at 215 feet) and the majesty of the Calle de los Muertos, or the Street of the Dead, which was originally 4km long and surrounded by temples, palaces, and platforms.

Teotihuacan required a lot of walking and climbing, but I was proud of myself for being able to do it all even though I was still not completely well yet from the flu. Note: the high altitude will make your exertions more tiring than usual. While the Pyramid of the Sun was the tallest of the 2 pyramids, it was an easier climb than the Pyramid of the Moon due to its larger steps. Both pyramids offer an amazing view down the Calle de los Muertos. I strongly advise to visit during the week or in the morning during the weekends to avoid the crowds.

The Pyramid of the Moon inside the ancient city of Teotihuacan.

A view of the mountains in the distance from the top of the Pyramid of the Moon

A view of Calle de los Muertos and the Pyramid of the Sun from the top of the Pyramid of the Moon.

Me on top of the Pyramid of the Moon with the Pyramid of the Sun in the

background.

Mel and I on top of the Pyramid of the Moon.

The Pyramid of the Sun from Calle de los Muertos.

The history of Teotihuacan dates back to around 150 BCE when it was a large Aztec settlement. As other settlements in the area diminished, it continued to flourish and became the religious and economic center. Between 1CE and 250CE both the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon along with Calle de los Muertos were built. The massive pyramids were painted red and considered holy places. Teotihuacan’s literal translation is “the place where men [sic] become gods.” Over time, the pyramids were worn down by age and weather, until they appeared little more than large hills on the landscape. It was not until the 19^th Century that proper excavation and restoration was performed.

Worried that we might be stuck in heavy traffic again and not be able to make it to our dinner reservation in time, we said adios to the pyramids and made our way back into the city. I suppose we had gathered lucky energy from the pyramids, because we encountered hardly any traffic and arrived at my hotel with enough time to freshen up.

Our final stop of the day was dinner with another Couchsurfer named Erika. Erika was an interesting woman; she came for a visit to Mexico City 2 years ago and fell so in love with it that she gave up her life in Canada to move there. While she has struggled at times in her new life, she does not regret the decision. And after spending 2 days in the city I can understand why. She convinced me to try another new Mexican dish called pozole, which is a traditional soup filled with various vegetables and infused with seasonings. After our late dinner and conversation, all of us too tired to go out, I retired back to my hotel.

Mexcity City Day 1: I Finally Made It To Mexico's Capitol

2009-10-20T23:57:00Z

Originally, I was supposed to go on this little get-a-way a month before I actually went, with 2 of my lovely girlfriends, except the night before I was to depart, I came down with the flu and sadly could not join them. Not wanting to pass up the opportunity to practique mi español, walk in Frida Kahlo's footsteps, climb some pyramids, and shop in the local Mexican markets; I rescheduled the trip by myself for a month later. On a whim before my 1st scheduled trip, I had contacted a Couchsurfer named Mel, and asked if she would like to meet up while I was there. Poor Mel had offered to pick me up at the airport and was unable to receive my message in time about being too ill to make it and thus waited at the airport for over 2 hours for me. She kindly agreed to once more pick me up. Having been delayed about an hour, I was worried that she would assume that I had not shown up. I cleared customs and then began to unsuccessfully search all over for her. I felt so bad at the thought of disappointing her yet again. I bought a calling card, but every time I called it would go to straight to her voice mail. Just as I was about to give up and take a taxi to my hotel, I heard my name being paged. I looked over at the information booth and there was a smiling Mel! We rushed over to greet each other and I discovered that the terminal I was in was a brand new one and that she had been anxiously waiting at the old terminal for me. Oh dios mio!

Mel and I instantly felt like we had known each other for years. Since she had the whole weekend free, she decided that she would dedicate it to showing me around her city and taking me wherever my heart desired. This incredible generosity she possessed, especially with a stranger, is so uncommon to find these days that I could not help myself from saying “muchas gracias” every 5 minutes.

From the airport, we went for some food at my request. On the way to the restaurant we picked up Mel’s close friend. After a couple of hours of eating delicious Mexican cuisine and the telling of our life stories, we parted with her friend and went to one of Mel’s favorite area’s called el Centro de Coyoacan. This quaint little part of the city was once believed to have been inhabited by coyotes. Walking through Coyoacan it is easy to imagine how it must have looked in centuries past, since it is still paved with cobblestone streets and lined with colonial homes.

A typical street in Coyoacan.

One can also find museums, cafes, boutiques, restaurants, and art studios that all help to create a charming ambiance. In the middle of Coyoacan are Plaza Hidalgo and Jardin Centenario. These 2 areas adjoin to make the historical center by forming a zocalo, or labyrinth. The zocalo in Coyoacan is made of hedges, fountains, trees, and benches and is normally bustling with people and vendors.

The zocalo in Coyoacan.

Our 1st stop was the most prominent feature in Coyoacan: Parroquia de San Juan Bautista, which is a gorgeous, ancient cathedral.

The facade of Parroquia de San Juan Bautista.

The inside.

And one last parting shot.

Our 2nd stop was a small gift shop where I purchased an enchanting Oaxacan animal woodcarving. These stunning carvings are based on real animals (mine was an elephant, of course!), but have parts of various other animals. They are painted with vibrant colors and patterns, with no 2 exactly alike.

It was starting to get late in the day and I still needed to check into my hotel, so we left Coyoacan for Polanco. This was about a 30km drive and should have taken us about 45 minutes, however due to Mexico City being one of the most populated cities in the world (there are around 20 million citizens), it instead took us 3 hours. While the traffic did not phase Mel at all, I could barely handle the stress. About hour 2 into the ride we decided to stop for some dinner in la Zona Rosa. It was there where I tried mole, a spicy chocolate stew, for the 1st time. I am not normally a fan of spicy food, but I was able to make an exception for this special treat. Chilies are the main ingredient, along with unsweetened chocolate, sesame seeds, garlic, ground cloves, coriander, and cinnamon. Together these ingredients infuse the dish with multiple flavors.

After the satiating meal, Mel finally dropped me off at my hotel. I chose to stay at Hotel Habita in Polanco, a posh area of the city. From the website I could tell that the hotel was impressive, but as I stood in my room I thought to myself that I have never seen a more glamorous hotel before. I jumped into my luxurious bathtub, used the provided Kiehl’s bath products, and let the stress from the awful traffic melt away.

As I drifted off to sleep a little later, I could not help and reflect on my 1st impression of this grand city. Despite the overpopulation, pollution, and traffic, this part modern metropolis and part monstrosity is not to be missed! This city that is so special it has multiple names (Distrito Federal, D.F., Mexico City, Ciudad de Mexico, or simply Mexico) is the cultural, political, and financial nerve center of the country. I believe this quote regarding Mexico City from the Lonely Planet guide accurately describes it perfectly, “Perhaps more than any city on earth, it is at the intersection of the first and third worlds, with all the ills, thrills and surprises that suggests. One moment the city is all Latin beats, glamour, and excitement; the next it's drabness, poverty, suffocating crowds, and rancid smells. In spite of the negatives, Mexico City is a magnet for Mexicans and visitors alike. You certainly won't be bored in this complex, historic city.”

So, my words of wisdom are to ignore the foolish and incorrect warnings that it is the #1 most dangerous city in the world and make sure to add it as a dream destination!

An Andi Update

2009-10-20T23:38:00Z

Well, I am done reminiscing about my trip to South Africa and am now debating which trip I should blog about next (luckily I have too many amazing ones to choose from!). In the meantime, I stumbled across this incredible travel related website today: Straight Up Traveler. I am so excited to have found this, as it will greatly simply my life. It lists all of the major daily travel related stories in 1 place. That way I will not have go searching through the great abyss of the web to find them. Check it out, I know you will love it too! Also, in the upcoming months my own website will be getting a face lift. I cannot wait!!!

South Africa Day 16: My Final Thoughts On South Africa

2009-10-14T18:10:00Z

Over the next 2 days of travel to return home, I thought a lot about my time in South Africa. I had heard a quote by the President of the country, Thabo Mbeki, that really resonated with me. He said, "I am like a cosmic wanderer, driven by the winds to land where they will." The winds took me to Africa and now I could not get her out of my mind. Is it possible that the reason why she touched me so deeply is that she is the birthplace of humankind? Is she in my DNA and I am forever connected to her? As I walked along Africa's earth, I walked along my roots. Mother Africa. I will surely miss her, but I know that I will return...many, many times.

Me and Sarah at the beginning of the 22 hour flight.

South Africa Day 15: My Last Day With The Animals

2009-10-14T17:53:00Z

What a great way to start my last day in the park by seeing 2 wild giraffes!

And then, the loveliness continued with me spotting...

...these magnificent creatures at their watering hole!

How cute are the resting birds?

As if the day could not get any better, I then spotted a very rare thing indeed (well, according to my ranger at least): a 1 month old baby elephant!

That is the Mom on the right trying to coax the baby to come out of the bush.

I can totally hear you saying, "Awww...,"right now.

Me in utter bliss!!!

My heart started to ache as we headed for the exit gate. Could I not just stay 1 more day please!?

I believe the Universe heard my pleads, because I was sent off with 1 last sighting in the river near the gate.

5 hungry hippos!

Later in the evening, we had a farewell feast at our hotel. While the food was delicious, none of us could really enjoy it. Who would ever want to leave such a paradise?

The gorgeous al fresco restaurant.

Me and Sarah on our last night in South Africa.

South Africa Day 14: More Glorious Spottings

2009-10-13T19:08:00Z

We had another all day game drive, in which I spent much of it pondering the last 2 extraordinary weeks of my life in between spotting new animals and more of the ones I had seen the day before. Simply amazing!

Bats!

A leopard turtle. Evolution is pretty cool, huh?

I love the next photos of a lioness just after her kill. You can still see the blood on her face and how she is exhausted after the hunt! I only wish I had a better camera with an awesome lens. Alas, I suppose it is the memory that means the most after all.

Looking at this photo makes me want to become a park ranger.

A rare shot to get 2 different animals so close to each other and it happened to be my last animal
sighting of the day.

My last view of the park as we drove back to the hotel.

South Africa Day 13: Spotting The Big 5 (Part 2)

2009-10-06T01:24:00Z

More animals in their natural habitat...

This little guy charged our jeep and refused to move until his entire herd had safely crossed the road.

And this is quite possibly my most favorite photo that I have ever taken in all of my travels to date!

Before the evening game drive, we had dinner in the middle of the bushland. The animals could have approached us at anytime, thus the guides had to be ready to protect us with guns. Sure enough half-way through the meal the guides jumped up in full attention, as a hyena had wandered within feet of us. It stayed there wandering around aimlessly for 20 minutes and then left as quickly as it had come. It was such a surreal moment!

And here are some photos from the drive to dinner...

This is another photo that just takes my breath away!

Our ride for the entire safari.

Me in the middle of the bushland (I was as nervous as one could be).

Me and Sarah with our fantastic ranger (whom we both had a little crush on). Yes, Sarah is
drinking a Hansa!

Me and Sarah as the sun disappeared over the horizon.

Our dinner table.

Our chef and the delicious African food for the evening.

This almost full moon guided us along the evening game drive.

South Africa Day 13: Spotting The Big 5 (Part 1)

2009-10-02T00:26:00Z

The day began with a 6AM morning game drive and ended with a 10PM evening game drive. I was so exhausted by the time we got back to our room. The safari gods and goddesses were certainly looking out for me though, since my jeep spotted the most animals!

The park was really amazing with its vast savannas, abundant wildlife, and long conservation history. We saw ALL of the "Big 5" (on the 1st day is quite rare): lions, leopards, elephants, buffaloes, and black rhinos, as well as many, many other species.

I could have used a Starbucks in this moment (me at 5:30AM)!

The sun began to rise just as we entered the park.

Our 1st spotting of animal tracks. They were from an elephant!

A tree that had been knocked down by the elephant whom had left the tracks in the above photo.

And here come the animals...

And here come my most favorite animals of all...

To be continued...

South Africa Day 12: The Safari Adventure Begins

2009-09-30T01:22:00Z

From Jo'berg, Kruger National Park was about a 7 hour drive away. Normally, I hate sleeping while on a road trip, because I never want to miss something. However, since I had been completely sleep deficient for almost 2 weeks, I was fast asleep the second we left Jo'berg.

Me in front of the hotel's gift shop.

After we finally arrived and got settled into our fantastic hotel, which was located in the middle of the African bush, several of us felt like venturing out into the "woods." There were signs everywhere that said it was dangerous to leave the hotel grounds, but that did not stop us (c'mon we had just swam with Great White sharks). We wanted to see some wild animals! Our bravery lasted about 10 minutes though, because as soon as we saw the 1st sets of eyes shining in the darkness (they belonged to some giant wildebeests), we ran in silence back to the safety of our rooms.

South Africa Day 11: Coming To Terms With Apartheid

2009-09-22T17:16:00Z

The entire day was spent learning about the history of apartheid in South Africa...

Our first visit was to Soweto, the country's largest and most well-known township.

It is famous, because both Nobel Peace Prize winner's Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu lived there. As I walked around the shanty town I was able to observe the "4 D's" that are always talked about in reference to Africa: death, disaster, disease, and despair; all of which have truly made the continent the sorrow child of the Universe.

Despite this, I surprisingly found that the people's spirits were alive and that they were unwilling to give up. A recent survey had found that 93% of the country’s citizens were proud to be South African.

Along the walk, we stopped at Mandela's old house (definitely one of those proud South African's). A true hero, just being amongst his stuff inspired me to greatness.

A beautiful greeting by school children.

The outside of Mandela's home.

Mandela's bedroom.

The boots that Mandela wore in prison for so many years.

On the next visit we paid our respects at the Hector Peterson memorial. Peterson, only an innocent child, was the 1st causality of the Soweto uprisings that occurred in 1976.

This quote by Mandela was incredibly moving: To be free is not merely to cast off one's chains, but
to live in a way that respects and enhances the freedom of others.

The final visit was to the Apartheid Museum. This historical site takes a hard, long look at South Africa's era of segregation. With plenty of attention to details and overall effect, the museum uses film, text, audio, and live accounts to provide a colorful insight into the architecture, implementation, and eventual unraveling of the apartheid system. There is no way one can leave there without feeling emotionally drained.

The powerful entrance into the museum.

An interesting exhibit of mirrors.

On the coach ride to our farewell dinner for the half of the delegation not going on the safari, I read a quote by David Lamb in his book, The Africans, that I thought was perfectly fitting for the day. He wrote, "But troubled as these early years of nationhood have been, Africa need not dwell forever in the uncertain twilight zone. Its dreams have been only mislaid, not lost." I could not agree with that quote more! Although the light on Africa's problems barely exists, I truly believe that due to the extraordinary people in this world who care deeply about the incredible continent, that the light will one day will be illuminated.

Me and Sarah so excited to start our safari adventure!

Kruger National Park now awaited my arrival...

South Africa Day 10: Yet Another Heartbreaking Day

2009-09-21T22:33:00Z

After some more ward rounds at a public hospital specializing in dialysis, we headed to the Othandweni Family Care Center.

I have made orphanage visits before, but I knew that this would be especially difficult since most of the children had lost their family members to AIDS and might even have the disease themselves. Within minutes of arriving, I quickly befriended 2 young boys with such amazing spirits. I wish with all of my heart that I could have taken them home with me!

Sarah and I with our 2 new young friends.

One boy (the one pictured in the red shirt) wanted to be an actor when he grew up and asked me copious questions regarding Hollywood. He had such a charismatic personality! The other boy (the one pictured in the black shirt), much more reserved than his buddy, wanted to be a writer when he grew up and was eager to share his work with me.

Here are 2 of his incredibly eloquent poem's (warning: have some kleenex nearby):

With Every Tear

I try to come to terms with my loss, yet the tears keep coming...falling. With every tear I wipe is a memory I erase. I suppose what they say is true, just because you love someone it doesn't mean you can't let go.

I never thought it would be as hard as this. I try to cope, yet still the world lies heavy on my shoulders and the tears keep coming. A part of me feels as though this is the end, as the road ahead has just suddenly been erased. I feel so empty inside. I feel that I have nothing left within me and the tears keep coming.

My heart beats with pain. My lips? All they utter are their names. Every minute that passes visions of them echo through my mind and then I lose all control. It feels as though I'm going out of my mind. Nothing seems to make sense, even when I speak I am unable to articulate my thoughts. My feelings are dead yet lie dead in a grave of sorrow. Everything seems to be blurred by visions of them telling me that they love me.

The death of all of my family came as a shock. Although most would like to believe that I am a strong young boy, no matter how strong one becomes, accepting the death of someone you loved is very hard, and accepting the death of someone who left so much unsaid and unheard is impossible.

All of my family died 7 years ago and yet the tears still keep coming. Africa! Africa! Africa! What have I done to you? Why me?

------------

The Tears Keep Coming

Well, here I am a 16 year old boy. Confused, coming to terms with himself. Unwanted?

What have I done or accomplished in my short life that I can look back upon and think, wow, I did that! I'm lonely, complicated, depressed, and complex. I hurt and ache for love, but the love I crave is far beyond that of a simple girlfriend (if I get one I won't complain!). No, this love is a love I crave for myself, just to know that I'm exactly like other people who live, who love, who breathe, who cry.

My tears usually come at 2 o'clock in the morning when I've just woken up from a bad dream and I sit thinking of my life.

Half of my life I want to live over. Then a single transparent tear starts to journey down my cheek, soon accompanied by its friends.

I sit there in darkness, silent...confined within the walls of my mind...thinking. I think about the years and years I've tried, but it's amounted to nothing. I think about how I've tried with friends, how I've been hurts by their actions. I think in my silent prison about how I've tried to be more "social"...ended up crying, because I’ve never been as alone as in a group of friends.

No one knows my heart, and my feelings about life. I value it, I cherish it, but my life is another story. In my past, I was strong and carefree, but after years of my family dead my spirit and strength seem to have faded. It's funny how I start off life with joy then as time goes by I shrivel up, as if my life juice has been lost along the way.

I'm left to say the lines, "I get knocked down, but...

...should I get up again?" Especially when life mercilessly and viciously tears at my legs to weaken me when it has the chance to?

My failures hurt me and I should learn from them, but when my heart is bleeding I can’t handle the pain and focus on the good aspects of my life. I'm not ashamed of my tears no more, because they show strength. Facing my emotions is harder than boiling them up.

I am a 16 year old boy with intelligence and good, but no family, no home to be thankful for. Health and love is what matters now, but no matter how many times I tell myself this, the tears keep coming.

------------

I could not believe that he trusted me enough in such a short amount of time to not only share these poems with me, but to also give me copies to take home. To say I felt honored simply does not do my feelings, nor his actions justice. This experience was truly, truly life-changing.

On a side-note: I framed both poems once I returned home.

After another very emotional day, Sarah and I wanted to be alone so that we could process everything we had experienced up until this point. We found a restaurant called, Yum (the perfect name!), and without expecting it, it ended up being our best meal in Africa!

Me and Sarah in front of our "taxi" (a $60,000 Mercedes!). On the way to the restaurant, our driver
had to stop and ask for directions 4 times. Each time he stopped he talked in a different language.
It had to have been the most interesting taxi experience I have ever had.

Pink risotto!

Another Minor Interruption

2009-09-21T20:55:00Z

If you have been following my blog for a while, then you know that I am quite taken by all things Latin, especially Cuba. About a month ago, I discovered that one of my favorite artist's, Juanes, was playing for free in one of my favorite city's, La Habana, Cuba. The concert was in honor of peace and appropriately titled, "Paz Sin Fronteras (Peace Without Borders)." When I found this out my heart almost leaped out of chest! I have never wanted to attend a concert as badly as I had wanted to attend that one. I also liked that my going would support the end of the U.S. embargo against the island. However, now that I own my own business, I unfortunately could not risk being fined or imprisoned if I was caught having traveled there. I had already sneaked in there once, I did not think it was smart to tempt fate twice. It was heartbreaking to pass up this extraordinary experience, but I know that in the end I might the right decision and that one day I will return.

I was was again excited though when I found out that the concert was going to be broadcasted live online. I had been away in Washington, DC (blog entry to appear soon), but made it home yesterday just in time to see Juanes sing this and this and this AND this. The last song, Nada Particular, was beautifully fitting and brought tears to my eyes. How could it not with lyrics like these:

Dame una isla
en el medio del mar
llàmala libertad...
(Give me an island
in the middle of the sea
call it freedom...)

I can feel the tides of cruelty are changing and I am optimistic that in my lifetime the embargo will cease to exist. I hope that more brave people, like Juanes (who received death threats for performing), will stand up for what is right!